Ho Hang by Balenciaga c1971

Ho Hang by Balenciaga, launched in 1971, arrived during a time of tremendous cultural upheaval and self-expression. The early 1970s marked a pivotal shift in fashion, music, and identity—where tradition and rebellion danced hand in hand. Gender roles were softening, Eastern philosophies were captivating Western minds, and style was veering away from rigid formality toward something freer, earthier, and more introspective. Into this climate of open-mindedness and experimentation came Ho Hang, a men's fragrance that felt both exotic and modern, softly daring and elegantly restrained.

The name Ho Hang itself feels enigmatic at first glance—unfamiliar and alluring. Rooted in Cantonese, “Ho” (好) serves as an adverb meaning “very” or “truly,” while “Hang” (香) translates as “fragrant.” Together, Ho Hang—more accurately pronounced "Herng"—means something akin to “very fragrant” or “truly aromatic.” In a Western luxury context, the name might have been chosen not only for its direct meaning but also for its musical, international sound—suggesting an imagined voyage to the East, a meeting of refinement and sensuality. At a time when French couturiers were beginning to look outside the traditional canon of European inspiration, Balenciaga’s choice to use a Chinese phrase was both cosmopolitan and forward-looking.

The scent itself—a fresh, spicy, woody fougère—was crafted by master perfumers Raymond Chaillan and Jacques Jantzen. Opening with bracing lemon and aromatic herbs, it quickly deepens into a wooded, spiced heart, grounded by classic fougère elements like lavender, moss, and dry woods. It manages to be masculine and clean without falling into the sharp, soapy clichés of the time. While in line with other 1970s men's fragrances that emphasized freshness and greenery (like Azzaro Pour Homme or Paco Rabanne Pour Homme), Ho Hang distinguished itself with an understated exoticism and a surprisingly shared sensibility.

Indeed, Balenciaga's own marketing spoke to that idea of shared experience: “Ho Hang. Because some of the nicest experiences in life are meant to be shared.” This messaging subtly invited women to enjoy the fragrance too—either by giving it, borrowing it, or simply appreciating it. As gender expression grew more fluid in the 1970s, Ho Hang may have felt surprisingly accessible to both men and women who appreciated refined simplicity and aromatic clarity.

Scent-wise, the name Ho Hang conjures not just the notion of fragrance itself, but the kind of fragrance that lingers lightly in the air—like clean linen in the breeze, a lemon grove in the sun, or incense caught on a lover's jacket. It is both comforting and cosmopolitan, familiar yet intriguingly distant. In that sense, Ho Hang beautifully mirrors the time in which it was born: a fragrance of connection, openness, and quiet sensuality, wrapped in the elegance only Balenciaga could deliver.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ho Hang by Balenciaga is classified as fresh spicy woody fougere fragrance for men. A refreshing lemony, woodsy fragrance with a touch of spice.

• Top notes: Provencal lavender, English mint, Spanish basil, Guinea orange, Calabrian bergamot,  and Amalfi lemon
• Middle notes: Brazilian rosewood, Zanzibar carnation, Russian coriander, Jamaican nutmeg, Bourbon pelargonium geranium, Indonesian patchouli and Virginia cedar
• Base notes: Java vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, Maltese labdanum, Siam benzoin, Madagascar vanilla, Venezuelan tonka bean, ambergris and Tonkin musk

Scent Profile:

Smelling Ho Hang by Balenciaga is like stepping into an aromatic corridor where each door opens to a different part of the world, each scent note unfolding in succession with a crisp, deliberate rhythm. This 1971 fougère structure is bright and invigorating at the top, warmly spiced and deeply wooded through the heart, and anchored by a richly resinous, musky base that lingers with quiet, masculine elegance.

The top notes greet you with a burst of invigorating greenery and citrus clarity. The lavender from Provence is sweet, herbal, and refined—less camphoraceous than its cousin from other regions. It carries the sunlit softness of the southern French countryside. Alongside it, English mint offers a brisk, cooling freshness, without the sugariness of peppermint—it's sharper, more aromatic, with a garden-fresh quality. Spanish basil adds a green, slightly spicy undertone, enhancing the herbaceous clarity while giving the opening a Mediterranean flair.

The citrus notes are nothing short of luminous. Guinea orange (a type of bitter orange) contributes a tart yet slightly floral nuance, far more aromatic than sweet. The Calabrian bergamot, prized for its elegance and balance, brings its signature Earl Grey-like character—bright, sparkling, with a refined bitterness that perfectly bridges the fruit and herb facets. Finally, Amalfi lemon—renowned for its sunny, soft citrus profile—rounds out the opening with a juicy, effervescent brightness, less acidic and more mellow than its industrial cousins.

As the fragrance transitions, the heart notes reveal a more structured, woody-spiced warmth. Brazilian rosewood, rare and now largely restricted in perfumery, offers a polished, mahogany-like aroma—rosy, faintly balsamic, and grounding. Zanzibar carnation introduces a floral spiciness, clove-like but softened by its natural sweetness. Russian coriander adds a dry, peppery citrus thread that cuts through the sweeter florals with its green edge. Jamaican nutmeg is deeply aromatic, warm, and slightly creamy, its unique island terroir lending a richer character than nutmeg from other origins.

Bourbon pelargonium geranium, sourced from the island of Réunion (formerly known as Bourbon), offers a green, minty-rosy scent, more complex and robust than typical geraniums—an ingredient that echoes both rose and citrus, linking earlier top notes with the blooming heart. Indonesian patchouli, earthier and more rounded than its Indian counterpart, lends a dark richness without being too musty. It smells of damp wood, aged parchment, and the underbrush of a tropical forest. Virginia cedar brings in a dry, pencil-shavings clarity—clean and linear—providing structure and spacing to the blend.

Then, the base unfolds like the quiet resonance of a low, warm chord. Java vetiver is smoky, grassy, and slightly leathery—more rugged than Haitian vetiver, with a rooty density that clings to the skin. Mysore sandalwood, now a rarity due to conservation protections, is revered for its creamy, milky texture—far less dry than Australian varieties. It melts into the warmth of the skin with a softness that feels almost tactile. Maltese labdanum, sticky and ambered, brings a sun-baked, resinous depth. Its Mediterranean origin gives it a smoother, less leathery character than the labdanum from other regions.

Siam benzoin, from Thailand, has a sweet, vanilla-balsamic tone that enriches the composition, playing in harmony with the velvety, spicy-sweet Madagascar vanilla, whose profile is creamy and full-bodied due to the island’s unique growing conditions. Venezuelan tonka bean, rich in coumarin, adds a nutty, hay-like softness, which, combined with benzoin and vanilla, gives the drydown an almost gourmand warmth. Finally, the animalic heart of the scent beats with ambergris—deeply oceanic, mineralic, and enveloping—and Tonkin musk, long since banned in its natural form but here evoked through fine synthetic recreations, offering warmth, sensuality, and a human skin-like finish.

Altogether, Ho Hang’s ingredients form a richly textured aromatic portrait. Natural and synthetic elements are expertly layered: the aldehydic crispness and aromatic herbals dance atop a woody-spiced heart and an opulent, musky base. The synthetic facets, especially in the musk and ambergris, lend structure and longevity to the naturals, allowing the citrus and herbs to remain lifted and clear, while the deeper notes unfold with sensual persistence. It is a fragrance that remains both timeless and worldly—refined, yet easy to wear—an olfactory passport stamped with the essence of far-flung places.

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Ho Hang by Balenciaga, though now discontinued—with no official date given for its removal from production—has quietly gained a cult following among fragrance enthusiasts. Over the years, it appears to have undergone at least three distinct reformulations, each drifting further from the bold originality of the 1971 launch. Like many classic fragrances subjected to reformulation, these changes reflect shifting tastes, evolving ingredient regulations, and the economic realities of modern perfumery. What remains is a name that once stood for aromatic complexity and masculine elegance, now recalled with a touch of longing.

According to a knowledgeable Basenotes contributor, the differences between these three versions are substantial. The original formulation, released in 1971, was a true aromatic fougère. It featured a dynamic interplay of fresh citrus, herbal brightness, and deep, mossy undertones. The balance of freshness with dry spice and subtle sweetness gave it a natural elegance, while the use of high-quality raw materials gave the fragrance both clarity and depth. This version felt expansive and sophisticated, a quietly assertive scent that aged beautifully on the skin.

The second formulation marked a shift in character. No longer purely a fougère, it leaned toward the woody oriental genre. Though still well-crafted, it introduced more balsamic and resinous undertones, creating a richer, slightly darker profile. The aromatic freshness of the original was softened, and in its place came a subtle warmth—a fragrance still refined, but more introspective. This second version retained much of the DNA of Ho Hang, but reflected a more modern palette, perhaps aligning with trends in the late '80s and early '90s that favored smooth, ambery compositions over the brighter colognes of the past.

The third and final formulation—what appears to be the most recent—was reportedly a thinner, more economical rendering of the second. While it followed the woody oriental structure established by its predecessor, it lacked the complexity and richness that once distinguished the line. Described as "attenuated," this version likely suffered from cost-cutting measures and ingredient restrictions, resulting in a fainter, more generic scent profile. What once had texture and layering became simplified—familiar, but no longer stirring.

Each version of Ho Hang represents not just a shift in formula, but a shift in era, echoing how fragrances evolve to meet new cultural moods. For those who remember the original, it remains a benchmark—an expression of masculine elegance from a time when even bold experimentation was filtered through the refined lens of Balenciaga.